Wine Reviews

My favourite grape variety of all (what can’t it do?!) now interpreted by the Koerner brothers. This comes from the Deanery vineyard in Balhannah, Adelaide Hills. And it is a ripper, though leaning into savouriness, and not aping the famed wines of Jura. Delightful in its own incarnation.

It has drive and energy, serious swishes of limey, briny acidity, almost margarita-like in a way, but around that, dried and fresh apple, a dash of curry powder, green mango, green melon, a lick of nougat and some oatmeal and arrowroot biscuit notes. Complexity is a by-word here, but refreshment factor, deliciousness and interest are up in lights alongside. It sits at medium weight but feels thirst-quenching too. Detail of fruit, spice, savouriness, texture is all here. A seriously good white wine.

Rated : 94 Points

Mike Bennie. The WINEFRONT Published 22 September 2023.